Bionic Bites » Restaurants

Dinner at Mama’s Fish House – Maui

bionicgrrrl — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 15:58:54 +0000

One night, after a full day of driving up and around Maui on mostly unpaved gravelly car sickness-inducing dirt trails (I actually missed the dirty New York subways in Hawaii), we came upon Mama’s Fish House. From the name, I had expected the restaurant to be a small homey establishment, but it was actually a bit fancy in the island resort type of way. And the place was packed. We were told there was a forty minute wait without reservations, but we were tired of driving, and decided to wait it out at the bar. When I told our waitress I hadn’t expected the restaurant to be a place where you had to make reservations, she informed me that it was five-star restaurant and reservations were always necessary. ‘OK,’ I thought, ‘five-star, let’s see what you’ve got.’

At the bar I got a Mai Tai ($16). I was in Hawaii, so I figured something with an umbrella was in order. It was decent cocktail with a nice orange edge, but $16 was a bit much. Perhaps I’m a bit spoiled, but a good cocktail in New York runs around $13, and even at Painkiller, a tiki-inspired bar on the Lower East Side without the tourist bullsh*t, the drinks run around $13-$16, with those in the upper range having enough alcohol to cure/kill all that ails you. Mama’s Mai Tai was good, but not worth $16.

Mid-drink, they moved us to a table. The bar area wasn’t bad, but a table was much appreciated. Dinner soon began with an amuse bouche: carrot tomato bisque. It was creamy, smooth, and hot. A very nice start.

For his appetizer, David ordered the Ahi Sashimi Salad ($25), tuna sashimi with fried wonton strips, mixed greens, crumbled wasabi goat cheese, and roasted sesame seeds tossed in a Maui honey and Dijon mustard dressing. A light bright salad with a lot of texture, it was quite delicious. The wasabi was mild, but the tanginess of the goat cheese made up for it in flavor. Size-wise it was much larger than expected. The restaurant may be 5-star, but the portions definitely didn’t reflect that.

For my appetizer, I chose the Ahi Poke ($16). Ahi poke is a regional specialty in Hawaii. Made with raw yellowfin tuna, it’s similiar to sashimi, but comes diced and dressed in a mixture of soy sauce, raw onions, chili pepper, kukui nut, seaweed, and sesame oil. Mama’s poke — made with sweet Maui onions and lots of spicy red pepper that made my Korean mouth burn — was the best I had throughout the whole trip. It was also the most expensive, but considering how much I enjoyed it, it was well worth it.

Poi (mashed corm of the taro plant), another ubiquitous Hawaiian dish, came free with our appetizers. It was my first time eating poi, and the waitress seemed apprehensive I wouldn’t like it, but it was pretty good. It reminded me of melted tapioca. It was definitely subtle in taste, but for a person who likes tapioca and rice cake, it wasn’t too weird. Later in the trip, I came to realize that Mama’s version was definitely more bland. Poi elsewhere, even when fresh, had a sour note Mama’s did not. Mama’s was also less viscous in texture. Both styles I liked, but I probably prefer Mama’s. The waitress suggested dipping the hot poke into the poi, but I was quite happy eating it alone with a spoon.

Our entrées were less successful, so I’ll keep it brief. I had the Stuffed Fish ($48), mahi-mahi baked in a macadamia nut crust and stuffed with lobster, crab, and Maui onion. I never like stuffed meats of any kind because the stuffing is usually so fine you can hardly taste anything and the protein (the stuffee) is most often overcooked in efforts to thoroughly cook the innards. Nevertheless I ordered it anyway because the waitress mentioned it was what the restaurant was known for. Big mistake. Sometimes it’s best to trust your gut, your own stuffing. They did a good job with the macadamia nut crust at least. It was browned well and crunchy.

After a few bites, I traded my fish for David’s Uku ($44), which was much better. It was fresh fish, caught that day, grilled and served in a light wine sauce with tomatoes and capers. Simple is sometimes best, especially since it’s harder to screw up. Stick to the fish in the “Today’s Fish” section at Mama’s. There’s a choice of at least three, so you can choose the type of fish you want.

We were too full for dessert, so the meal ended with haupia, as most meals in Hawaii do. Haupia is like coconut gelatin. I could eat slabs and slabs of it. The mignardise-sized haupia at Mama’s were lovely. Not too sweet, not too hard, and with bits of toasted coconut. It almost made up for my main course, almost… I would have needed a lot more mini-haupias for that to happen.

Dinner at Mama’s Fish House wasn’t bad. The appetizers, poi, and haupia were fabulous. The rest, over-priced resort fare. Service however was exceptional. Our waitress couldn’t have been nicer. If I ever go back, I’ll be keeping it simple, and drinks I’ll be having elsewhere.

Mama’s Fish House
799 Poho Place
Paia, HI 96779 (map)
808-579-8488

Blogiversary Giveaway – NYC

bionicgrrrl — Fri, 23 Jul 2010 20:25:11 +0000

As usual, my blogiversary post is late, but by now you should expect it. It’s become tradition. In any case, Bionic Bites turned two this week, and what better way to celebrate than to have a giveaway to thank all my loyal readers. Thank you for all your wonderful comments, tweets, and likes! Honestly, if it weren’t for you guys, I wouldn’t have kept this little blog going for so long.

As a thank you, I’m giving away a bottle of Esperanto Spiced Oil from Esperanto. If you’re not familiar with Esperanto, it’s a great local spot in Alphabet City specializing in Brazilian and South American cuisine. They serve an incredibly indulgent moqueca that I adore, but the place is really known for the spiced oil that they serve with their bread. The oil is a blend of olive oil, canola oil, fennel seeds, cumin seeds, peppercorn, red pepper flakes, salt, and garlic. It has hint of heat, and a nice nutty depth from the fennel and cumin seeds. To put it simply, it’s completely addictive. The last time I was there, David and I went through two baskets of bread, and with the remaining oil, we poured it all over our fried calamari. Probably not a smart move, but certainly delicious.

I notice the spiced oil they sell is slightly more mellow than their restaurant version, but I have a feeling that’s because it’s freshly bottled. A little more time, and I’m sure the oil will fully develop.

To win the Esperanto Spiced Oil, write in the comments below how you would use the oil. Dipping is great, but I imagine it would work beautifully in a marinade or simple sauté. I’ll be picking one lucky person at random. Giveaway ends Wednesday (July 28, 2010) at noon. U.S. entrants only. Good luck and thank you again for reading!

Update (7/28/2010): Jenny is the winner! Congratulations Jenny, and thanks everyone for participating. And remember, you can buy the spiced oil at Esperanto or online.

Esperanto
145 Avenue C (at 9th St; map)
New York, NY 10009
212-505-6559

Island Brunching – Maui

bionicgrrrl — Sun, 18 Jul 2010 17:08:58 +0000

As I mentioned, portions are HUGE in Hawaii. Outrageously ridonkulous. So most days, David and I took the big brunch and dinner route. It was like weekends in New York, but everyday. Not a bad thing.

In Maui, our two favorite places for breakfast/brunch were Gazebo and Sam Sato’s. Both places had something for each of us: fat pancakes for David and non-breakfasty Asian-inspired food for me.

Sam Sato’s is known for saimin, the Hawaiian version of ramen. (Saimin is even on the menu at McDonald’s in Hawaii.) I ordered a small Saimin ($4.95), and it was a medium bowl (Small in Hawaii is like a regular size in New York) of curly egg noodles and porky broth, topped with roast pork and scallions. The pork was dry, but I liked the chewy noodles and the hot soup. After reading about saimin on Wikipedia, I had expected the soup to be a lighter and fishier, but the waitress told me they use a stock made from dashi and bones, usually pork and/or beef bones. She also said when people get sick, they order the soup to-go and cook it up with ginger at home. I could see that being a good cold remedy, but really, how do you get sick in Hawaii? It’s seventy degrees and gorgeous all year round! In any case, my first saimin was a success. Hot noodle soup is definitely my kind of brunch.

David opted for the Breakfast ($5.90), two eggs with a choice of starch and protein, and a Hot Cake ($2.60). He chose toast for the starch and a hamburger patty for the protein. The eggs, toast, and hamburger were average, but the Hot Cake ($2.60) was big and fluffy with a really nice crumb structure that quickly sopped up the super sweet pancake syrup and melted butter. Completely delicious. It reminded me of when I was little I would get the hot cakes at McDonald’s because they looked good on the menu. Unfortunately, after one dense and rubbery bite, I would always regret it. If they tasted like the hot cakes at Sam Sato’s, I would have been a happier and more rounder child.

At Gazebo, a small gazebo restaurant overlooking Napili Bay, we went the sweet and savory approach again. Sweet and savory for him, and savory for me. I ordered a half order of the Fried Rice Plate ($6.50), fried rice with bacon, Portuguese sausage, ham, red cabbage, peppers, and scrambled eggs on top. I rarely ever order fried rice in New York since it’s so easy to make it at home, but for breakfast/brunch in Hawaii, it was homey and comforting, even if it was heavy on the soy sauce. If the eggs were fried instead of scrambled, I would have loved it even more. Fried eggs with runny yolks make everything taste better. If I ever go back, I’ll make sure to ask for fried or poached eggs on top. I’m sure it would be easy for them to accommodate the request. In Honolulu, at a restaurant called Hula Grill, they were happy to oblige, and they even brought me a bottle Sriracha along with the fried rice. It was like they read my mind. It was absolute heaven.

David had the Two Egg Breakfast ($7.50) with potatoes and toast, but again nothing too exciting. More exciting were the Macadamia Nut Pancakes ($7.75 for a short stack), two large macadamia nut pancakes crowned with a giant dollop of whipped cream and garnished with chopped macadamia nuts. Pancake syrup and coconut syrup were served on the side. Again, the pancakes were thick and fluffy, but with the addition of airy whipped cream and drizzled with coconut syrup and pancake syrup, it was amazingly good. Coconut syrup is a little hokey, in that tropical gimmicky way, but we were eating macadamia nut pancakes in a gazebo in Hawaii after all, and it had a nice coconut flavor and it wasn’t too sweet. Combined with the pancake syrup, the sweetness level was perfect.

To drink, I bypassed my usual alcoholic brunch beverage for a POG ($2.95), a juice blend of passion fruit, orange, and guava juice. We were taking a boat out after brunch to snorkel, and I wanted to play it safe since I have problem with sea sickness sometimes. I’m sure the people of Hawaii didn’t want me to sully their beautiful azure waters with semi-digested fried rice. (By the way, I didn’t get sea sick and snorkeling was extremely fun. I saw two turtles!) POG was pretty much everywhere we went in Hawaii. Again, it’s one of those touristy things, but it’s tasty, like a light tropical punch.

One tip, lines are long at Gazebo, but if you get the food to-go, you can skip the line. As long as you can handle the heat, order your food to-go and take a seat by the pool of the Outrigger Napili Shores Condo right in front of Gazebo.

Pancakes and Asian-inspired food for brunch, not sure if a place like that would ever open in New York, but if it did, I would be there in an instant. Until then, Gazebo and Sam Sato’s awaits, albeit ten hours away…

Sam Sato’s
1750 Wili Pa Loop (map)
Wailuku, HI 96793
808-244-7124

Gazebo
5315 Lower Honoapiilani Road (map)
Lahaina, HI 96761-9005
808-669-5621

Dinner at Momofuku Ssäm Bar – NYC

bionicgrrrl — Fri, 02 Jul 2010 18:16:30 +0000

When I have guests from out-of-town, I always recommend Momofuku Ssäm Bar. Why? Simply put, because the restaurant is freakin’ awesome. Or to be more specific, Momofuku Ssäm makes insanely good well-crafted food that could be served in a four-star restaurant in a casual atmosphere. Unfortunately, friends are not always convinced, especially if they’re Korean. Their mentality is that while they’re in New York, they don’t want Korean food. However, Momofuku Ssäm isn’t a Korean restaurant. It’s New American with Asian influences, Korean being one of the more prominent influences. And even if they’re not Korean, they don’t want to go to Ssäm because they haven’t heard of the restaurant. They rather go to Lombardi’s or Magnolia Bakery (Lombardi’s I like, Magnolia I do not). Well, seems this year things are changing. Ever since Momofuku’s cookbook came out last year, all of sudden the Momofuku restaurants have become New York destinations.

Last month, when Alvin came to visit and said he wanted to go to Ssäm, I was stoked. I love taking people to places I love. It’s a win-win situation, for them and my belly.

I began dinner with the Seven Spice Sour, togarashi infused sake, fresh lime juice, and yuzu. I loved it. It wasn’t spicy, but it was clean, crisp, tangy, and not too sweet. I ordered another as soon as I finished it. Alvin ordered the Celery & Nori, which he said he liked, but wished the nori flavor was stronger.

Shigoku Oysters ($18 for half a dozen) with kimchi purée followed shortly after. Oysters and kimchi is a classic Korean pairing — my favorite type of kimchi is gool kimchi (굴김치, kimchi with oysters) — so this worked nicely. The small plump oysters were fresh and light tasting, and the kimchi purée was mild enough so it didn’t overpower the oysters.

We also ordered Seasonal Pickles ($11) for the side. Selections change daily, but on our visit there was cabbage kimchi, carrots, celery, rhubarb, daikon, and cucumbers. All the pickles were good; the whole carrots were my favorite, and the kimchi my least favorite. It was way too salty. I’m Korean after all, so I’m a bit more picky with kimchi.

When the Hawthorne Valley Buttermilk ($12) — buttermilk with Fuji apple dashi, market herbs, and pine nuts — was brought to the table, it was a bit of a surprise. I was expecting a salad with a buttermilk dressing, so this gorgeous plate garnished with edible flowers was even better. The scoops of buttermilk had a soft delicate mouth feel, similar to flan but even lighter, and the Fushi apple dashi added a subtle sweetness.

The Steamed Buns ($9) which I’ve written about before, were good as usual, although I recall the pork being more tender in the past. Still as always, they were a crowd-pleaser.

The Spicy Honeycomb Tripe ($14), tripe with ginger-scallion, celery, pickled tomatoes, and garnished with black sesame seeds, was a dish of textures; squiggly, squishy, and slightly chewy with a little crunch from the black sesame seeds and celery. The heat wasn’t too strong, but it was definitely more than a tickle if you kept eating it. It wasn’t my favorite dish of the night, but a pleasant addition.

My favorite was the Chili Soft Shell Crab ($21) with asparagus and lemon confit. The crab was crunchy on the outside, fat and juicy on the inside, and the lemon confit was perfectly tart and creamy with a touch of sweetness. I’m not sure where the “chili” part came to play since there was no detectable heat, but it was more than delicious without it.

Alvin’s favorite dish was the Fried Baby Artichokes ($14), with pistachio purée, sunchoke slices, and bottarga (cured fish roe). Fried artichokes are always good, but combined with creamy pistachio purée, crisp sunchoke slices, and salty bottarga that sticks to all the twisted frizzled artichoke bits, it’s incredibly delicious. Our bowl was empty in seconds.

Dinner concluded with cookies, pies, and cereal milk galore next door at Momofuku Milk Bar. We left full and thoroughly pleased with dinner. After that night, the next week involved more fooding at fancier and more expensive restaurants, but Alvin said his favorite meal by far was at Ssäm. For locals, is it better now that tourists know about Ssäm? Lines may get a tad longer, but I have a feeling Ssäm won’t garner the mass appeal of Lombardi’s or Magnolia. People seem to like cupcakes more than tripe, and that’s fine by me.

Momofuku Ssäm Bar
207 2nd Ave (corner of 13th and 2nd Ave; map)
NY, NY 10003

Fire Noodles in Black Bean Sauce – Palisades Park

bionicgrrrl — Tue, 22 Jun 2010 04:49:11 +0000

I’ve been going to Mandarin, a Chinese-Korean restaurant in Palisades Park, for years. They have best jajangmyun (자장면, wheat noodles in black bean sauce) in the area because of their noodles. The noodles are made in-house, and to attest to this fact, they used to have a monitors in the dining area showing the cooks hand-pulling the noodles in the kitchen. Now the monitors show Korean programming. I guess the people working out front got tired of watching the back of the house day in, day out. In any case, the noodles are still good, and late last year I learned about their buljajajangmyun (불자장면, literally “fire jajangmyun”) through my brother’s friend, Young. By the way, I have a somewhat funny story about him. When I started this blog, I used to get a lot of weird comments that I attributed to an evil troll. Later on, I discovered it was Young. See, “somewhat funny.” I guess pestering your friend’s little sister never ends, even when she’s no longer little. Regardless of the source, since then, buljajangmyun has become a favorite of mine and my brother’s.

Buljajangmyun ($8.95) at Mandarin is similar to ganjajangmyun (간자장면) in that the sauce is more intense, and the noodles and sauce are served separately. What sets the two apart, however, are the diced jalapeno peppers in the sauce. Lots of peppers. As a result, the sauce is spicy, extremely spicy. Proceed with caution. I’m warning you, your lips and stomach will burn. I consider it in a good way, you may not.

If you’re sensitive to heat, don’t mix in all the sauce at once. They always give you more sauce than necessary, so add it in little by little. Although the sauce being very thick, if you add too little, the starchy noodles won’t get sauced properly and stick. But really, if you can’t take the heat, order the regular jajangmyung ($6.95). There’s no shame in it. In fact, my mom considers the buljajangmyun a rip. According to her, why pay two more dollars for some peppers?

Of course the other option is the Jjambbong (짬뽕, $8.95), the same house-made noodles in a spicy seafood soup. When I was little, I always preferred jajangmyun over jjambbong because I found the latter too greasy (the vegetables and some of the seafood are sautéed in oil before being added to the soup), but now for some reason, I don’t mind the grease as much and every once in a while I order jjambbong. The jjambbong at Mandarin is pretty good, the noodles are chewy and the soup has a rich seafood flavor. If you can’t decide between the jjambbong or the jajangmyun, Mandarin has the split bowl where you can have half and half, one on either side (called Jjamjamyun, 짬자면), but I prefer to order the opposite of my dining companion instead and share. In the split bowl scenario, I notice you always get less of each. Why have less when you can have more? Especially if one person is ordering the buljajangmyun. Thanks Young for the tip! (No need to leave a comment.)

Mandarin
110 Broad Avenue, 2nd Floor (b/n W Harwood & W Edsall Ave; map)
Palisades Park, NJ 07650
201-313-0121

First Brunch at DBGB Kitchen and Bar – NYC

bionicgrrrl — Wed, 12 May 2010 18:36:56 +0000

Sometimes you have such high hopes for a new restaurant when it doesn’t live up to your expectations, you’re crushed, angry, and resentful. In this case, none of that happened. (Sorry to disappoint you haters!) DBGB Kitchen and Bar turned out to be everything I wanted and expected it to be: great menu and delicious food in a casual setting.

Brunch began as usual; one Bloody Mary ($10) and one coffee ($3.50) for me. Both were solid. Olives aren’t my garnish of choice in a Bloody Mary (I prefer celery or caper berries), but presented by a little neon monkey, how could I refuse?

David, forever with the sweet tooth, ordered the sugar-dusted Brioche French Toast ($9) with fresh blueberries and braised apples. Maple syrup was served on the side. It was very eggy French Toast, wobbly and slightly crisp on the outside. For a person who usually gets sick of French Toast after a few bites, I liked DBGB’s delicate French Toast. It was small, but it tasted more like breakfast as opposed to dessert. David, however, who enjoys French Toast griddled or fried to a crisp and drenched in syrup, wasn’t entirely pleased.

I ordered the Boudin Basque ($14), blood and pig’s head sausage served atop whipped scallion mashed potatoes. (Sausages are the natural choice at DBGB. Fourteen varieties are house-made.) DBGB’s blood sausage wasn’t spicy as the menu suggested (it was more peppery sharp), but I loved it just the same. The innards were silky and rich with the exception of a few earthy offal chunks; the discovery of which was like finding a prize. For those familiar with Korean blood sausage (soondae, 순대), this was similar, but more refined and with no filler. And the scallion mashed potatoes underneath were oh-so-creamy, in parallel to the smoothness of the blood sausage.

Craving something green, I also ordered the Spring Pea Fricasee ($6). It was buttery medley of sugar snap peas, green peas, and yellow beans; all cooked gently so each still had a bite. It was nice uncomplicated side.

DBGB takes reservations for the main dining room, but the front bar area is available on a first-come, first-serve basis. I’ll be dropping by often. I’ve only scratched the surface of the sausage and offal-friendly menu. (They have a section called Tête aux Pieds or Head to Feet!) David won’t mind I’m sure. He wasn’t won over by the French Toast, but DBGB’s extensive dessert menu which includes sundaes and ice cream sandwiches is sure to satisfy him.

DBGB Kitchen and Bar
299 Bowery (b/n Houston & 1st St; map)
NY, NY 10003
212-933-5300

Fried Chicken and Fixins’ at Pies-n-Thighs – NYC

bionicgrrrl — Sat, 08 May 2010 12:33:28 +0000

Growing up in America, you eat a lot of fried chicken and pies. At least my family did. In our refrigerator, if there weren’t a few slices of pizza wrapped in Reynolds Wrap, there was a red bucket of good ole’ Kentucky Fried Chicken (this was before the dawn of Korean fried chicken in the States). Pies were also aplenty. My dad, not a believer in moderation, would buy at least four Entenmann’s pies at a time. (It was general knowledge in the house not to say we liked anything within hearing distance of our dad. Tell my dad you liked anything and there would a carton or two the next day in the dining room. A week later, a moldy carton would find its way into the garbage.) And don’t get me started on the stockpile of McDonald’s apple pies in the back of the refrigerator. I think my dad thought my mom liked them, but I don’t recall her ever eating one out of the refrigerator.

Now as an adult wary of fast food, I still have pizza in the refrigerator, but rarely do I have any fried chicken or pies. But that doesn’t mean I don’t eat them. I’m just pickier now on where I get my chicken and pie fix. Last month I was seriously craving fried chicken and somehow resisted the peppery wafts of Popeye’s two blocks from my old apartment. Instead, David and I took a trip over the bridge and made our way over to the newly reopened Pies-n-Thighs in Williamsburg. Homemade pies and chicken together in the same place? Game on.

A Fried Chicken Box ($11) had to be ordered. A box, which is not really a box but a platter (boxes are more fun, didn’t you know?), comes with one side and a biscuit. The chicken, which is brined before frying, was juicy and well-seasoned down to the bone. The exterior, however, could have been crunchier. I like fried chicken that crunches and crackles when you take a bite. The chicken at Pies-n-Thighs had a soft crunch.

The biscuit, more dense than average, was decent. I imagine if served hot, it would have been better.

For the side, I chose the Mac N Cheese which is served with a few squirts of hot sauce. Cooked over the stove and weak on cheese, I could have passed. The macaroni and cheese at P-n-T isn’t baked in the oven, so if you like a nice brown crust on your mac & cheese, order something else. As for the hot sauce, it’s interesting. I imagine if the mac & cheese was cheesier, the vinegary hot sauce would have helped cut the creaminess, but P-n-T’s version didn’t need it. I would have preferred more cheese instead.

French Fries ($4) were also needing more crunch. The fries were thin, but only vaguely warm. I suspect the fries had been sitting out for a while before they were brought to the table.

The Brisket Sandwich Box ($12) — three generous slices of smokey brisket between hearty slices of toasted white bread slathered with tangy barbecue sauce and mayonnaise — was far better. Eaten while hot, the steaming meat was soft and tender. As the brisket cooled, the meat seemed more dry, but that’s when the barbecue sauce and mayonnaise came into play. I’ve had better brisket that was more melt-in-your-mouth elsewhere, but the brisket sandwich was filling and more than satisfying.

The brisket platter also comes with a side, and although a side of vegetables seemed wiser, I went with the delicious Hush Puppies. The golden nuggets were crunchy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, and full of corny goodness. And covered with a dollop of gribiche with chopped pickles and lots of fresh dill, the fried hush puppies actually tasted light. I’d go back to Pies-n-Thighs for the scrumptious hush puppies alone.

Soon it was time for pie and I was torn between Sour Cherry and Cheddar Apple ($5/slice). Cherry is my all-time favorite pie filling, but the apple comes with a cheddar crust at P-n-T, so in the end the apple won out. Firm and tasting of warm caramelized sugar, the fat apples slices were quite good. Unfortunately, I can’t say the same about the crust which was soggy and doughy. The baked on shredded cheddar did little to revive the floppy mess. Perhaps the cherry would have been better.

It wasn’t the best fried chicken or pie ever, but Pies-n-Thighs satisfied my fried chicken cravings for a night. If in the ‘hood, I’d swing by again for brisket and hush puppies on top of some pies and thighs. It’s also conveniently by the Williamsburg Bridge; perfect for a leisurely stroll back into Manhattan and past Popeye’s.

Pies-n-Thighs
166 S 4th Street (at Driggs; map)
Brooklyn, NY 11211
347-529-6090

First Dinner at Pylos – NYC

bionicgrrrl — Tue, 13 Apr 2010 06:44:51 +0000

Ever since Pylos opened a few years ago, I’ve been meaning to go, but didn’t find my way there until recently. That happens a lot in New York, there’s just so many places you can try every week. Thankfully for my stomach, I finally made it out to Pylos, and I’m already planning my next visit. It was that good.

The meal began with a complimentary plate of warm pita and black bean dip. It was successfully filling, but nothing to rave about. Better was our shared appetizer: piperia gemisti me kafteri feta ($9), a large roasted red pepper stuffed with feta whipped with sweet and hot peppers. The filling wasn’t spicy as the menu described, but I enjoyed the smooth airy feta, not a quality I normally associate with feta.

For the main course, David ordered the psari sta karvouna ($26), grilled fresh fish of the day garnished with capers. On that particular night, there was a choice of dorade or branzino; he went with the branzino. The fish was served whole, but conveniently deboned prior to serving. Frank Bruni described the fish bland in 2005, but it was quite the contrary on our visit. I assume this is something the kitchen corrected. The seasoning was perfect, and served on the side was a dressing of olive oil and lemon in case more flavor was needed.

I went with the heartier paidakia galaktos stin schara me imam kai mora patates ($28), grilled baby lamb chops flecked with rosemary and served with eggplant and fingerling potatoes. The eggplant stuffed with tomatoes didn’t excite, but the small potatoes were nice and crusty. As for the meat, it was cooked and seasoned perfectly. There wasn’t much gaminess to the meat, but for those sensitive, do what the table of girls next to me did. They asked for lemon wedges, squeezed liberally, and chowed down using their fingers. No utensils necessary. My kind of girls.

For dessert, David and I shared the napoleon me mousse apo vissino kai yiaourti ($6), crisp sugar-dusted phyllo layered with an airy Greek yogurt and sour-cherry mousse.

Reminiscent of sour cherry pie and baklava (both a favorite of mine), but lighter, this simple dessert was a complete win. After the last bite, we both regretted not having ordered our own.

On the way home, David told me I should learn how to make the napoleon. I suggested we go back instead. Round 2 is definitely in order, savory and sweet.

Pylos
128 East 7th Street (betw Ave A & 1st Ave; map)
New York, NY 10009
212-473-0220

Moving to the East Village – NYC

bionicgrrrl — Thu, 08 Apr 2010 16:30:05 +0000

For those who were interested in my apartment hunt, I have great news. I finally found an apartment, and I’ll be calling the East Village home at least for the next two years. I’ll miss the Lower East Side and the close proximity to Chinatown (I did a late night walk through Chinatown yesterday and it was indeed very sad), but I’m consoled by my new delicious neighbors: Porchetta, Luke’s Lobster, Momofuku, Ippudo, and Veloce Pizzeria. (The pizza part I’m especially excited about. Nights when I craved pizza, it was torturous when all my favorite pizzerias refused to deliver below Houston. I will be pizza-less no more!) The next two years should be quite tasty.

Dim Sum at Golden Unicorn – NYC

bionicgrrrl — Mon, 29 Mar 2010 15:25:25 +0000

I don’t do it enough, but I love dim sum on the weekends. Even if the dim sum offerings in New York aren’t too imaginative, it’s still a nice change of pace from the typical brunch. (I mean really, how many eggs can you eat every single weekend?) In Manhattan, as of now, 88 Palace is my favorite, but I’ve recently started liking Golden Unicorn. It’s one of the more well-known spots and for good reason. The food is good (albeit greasy), the restaurant is cleaner than other dim sum joints (if you’re into that kind of thing), and you don’t have to share a table (sharing is not caring). Usually I don’t mind sharing a table at Chinese restaurants, but some days, especially in the mornings, I don’t want to get up close and personal with my fellow New Yorkers. That’s what New York subways are for.

Dim Sum began with har gow (steamed shrimp dumplings). The little dumplings were nice and plump, but could have been hotter. Unfortunately, that’s the consequence of carts. It’s fun to have food wheeled up to your table, but quality always suffers.

Steamed rice rolls with beef, another classic, also made a appearance at the table. Rice rolls are usually my favorite any time I go eat dim sum, and this time was no exception. Of course the meat filling could have been less paste-like, but the beef in rice rolls always seem to lack texture.

The shrimp puff was your typical crunchy taro shrimp puff, but with a little bit of cheese inside.

Although the cheese flavor wasn’t too strong, I liked the fried puff. Even after making a few rounds, the puff was still crunchy on the outside and moist on the inside.

The steamed spare ribs, heavy on the pepper, was extremely tender, but also very greasy. One bite and it was instant lip gloss.

When eating greasy dim sum, greens are always appreciated. Unfortunately, the Chinese kale (gai lan), slicked with flavorless oil, didn’t offer respite. The saving grace: slight crunch at the stems. I’m a strong believer overcooked greens belong in the trash.

And to round out dim sum, I always need carbs, usually in the form of sticky rice wrapped in a lotus leaf. The steamed sticky rice with chicken at Golden Unicorn was average. It could have been more fresh, but it served its purpose: filling carb satisfaction.

The total for the meal without tax was $26.20. It’s more pricey than other dim sum restaurants, but it’s possible to get your own table, and in Chinatown, personal space is priceless. Case in point, as I was exiting the building, an elderly Chinese man and his grandson shoved me aside so they could leave three seconds faster. Classic.

UPDATE (4/11/10): Looks like with the warmer weather, getting your own table isn’t quite so easy anymore. Unless you want to share, get there early.

Golden Unicorn
18 East Broadway (betw Catherine & Market St; map)
New York, NY 10002
212-941-0911