Ever since Pylos opened a few years ago, I’ve been meaning to go, but didn’t find my way there until recently. That happens a lot in New York, there’s just so many places you can try every week. Thankfully for my stomach, I finally made it out to Pylos, and I’m already planning my next visit. It was that good.
The meal began with a complimentary plate of warm pita and black bean dip. It was successfully filling, but nothing to rave about. Better was our shared appetizer: piperia gemisti me kafteri feta ($9), a large roasted red pepper stuffed with feta whipped with sweet and hot peppers. The filling wasn’t spicy as the menu described, but I enjoyed the smooth airy feta, not a quality I normally associate with feta.
For the main course, David ordered the psari sta karvouna ($26), grilled fresh fish of the day garnished with capers. On that particular night, there was a choice of dorade or branzino; he went with the branzino. The fish was served whole, but conveniently deboned prior to serving. Frank Bruni described the fish bland in 2005, but it was quite the contrary on our visit. I assume this is something the kitchen corrected. The seasoning was perfect, and served on the side was a dressing of olive oil and lemon in case more flavor was needed.
I went with the heartier paidakia galaktos stin schara me imam kai mora patates ($28), grilled baby lamb chops flecked with rosemary and served with eggplant and fingerling potatoes. The eggplant stuffed with tomatoes didn’t excite, but the small potatoes were nice and crusty. As for the meat, it was cooked and seasoned perfectly. There wasn’t much gaminess to the meat, but for those sensitive, do what the table of girls next to me did. They asked for lemon wedges, squeezed liberally, and chowed down using their fingers. No utensils necessary. My kind of girls.
For dessert, David and I shared the napoleon me mousse apo vissino kai yiaourti ($6), crisp sugar-dusted phyllo layered with an airy Greek yogurt and sour-cherry mousse.
Reminiscent of sour cherry pie and baklava (both a favorite of mine), but lighter, this simple dessert was a complete win. After the last bite, we both regretted not having ordered our own.
On the way home, David told me I should learn how to make the napoleon. I suggested we go back instead. Round 2 is definitely in order, savory and sweet.